Over the last 10- 15 years, the underwear market has changed dramatically. While it used to be something that was just pushed to the dark corners of the department store, with big brands like Calvin Klein and Hanes, there are now a number of specialist brands just focusing on underwear–with many more materials than the old standard, cotton. Today, we’ll find out what’s worth your money, no matter if you’re on a low budget or if you can afford something closer to $30.00.
Speaking of materials, let’s start our rundown with the most traditional: cotton. It is a great fabric and a well-known staple for most men. Overall, it’s a great natural material, except for one reason: it is very absorbent. For underwear, you don’t want moisture to be stuck next to your skin, but rather wicked away.
You can opt for cotton with a bit of spandex if you are not very active and you don’t sweat a lot, because it still does the job, it’s somewhat breathable, and it’s very affordable. Of course, you can also get very luxurious cotton that costs over $100 a pair. What about longevity? Shorter cotton fibers twisted into yarn are less expensive, but they’re more prone to pilling.
This material is made by the Austrian company, Lenzing. It is a semi-synthetic fiber, meaning it’s made from cellulose derived from trees or bamboo. Modal is stronger and softer than viscose (a more traditional cellulose fiber), and not as absorbent as cotton. You can dry it in the dryer without any damage, and it doesn’t pill like cotton or nylon. A variation of Modal is MicroModal. The fiber is even finer, meaning it can be woven more tightly. It’s also softer, but it still has the same characteristics as the regular Modal. The result of it is often that the touch is almost like silk, but because the fiber is a little finer, it may not last quite as long as a regular Modal.
For underwear, MicroModal is considered to be “the cashmere of synthetic or semi-synthetic fibers.” Lenzing manufactures MicroModal only in Europe, so even if the underwear is made overseas or in Asia, the material was still produced in Europe. It has only been around since the ’90s but Lenzing did some good marketing and they have a really good product. It’s softer than cotton, moisture-wicking, and shrinking-resistant. Again, you can put it in a dryer without any damage. It’s also breathable and has a low heat retention, making it the ideal fabric for an undergarment. On top of that, it has a very high stretchability and again, it’s not prone to pilling. To my mind, MicroModal is the best material you can have in a pair of underwear. That being said, regular Modal is still a good material.
So what about spandex, elastane, or lycra? They’re all made from polyurethane, which means they’re derived from oil. It’s basically all the same stuff; in the US it’s known as Spandex, and in Europe it’s known as elastane. Lycra is a brand name for elastane. You will never find a pair of underwear made out of 100% elastane; it’s usually blended with other fibers such as cotton, polyester, or nylon. The threads are nearly invisible, so it’s very easy to weave it into other fabrics. The fiber’s characteristics are that it’s very elastic and durable, and it has a low heat retention. On top of that, it’s lightweight, so it’s a good fiber to be blended into underwear.
This is a category that contains a number of different products, including nylon and Kevlar–yes, that’s the material they use for bulletproof vests! Polyamide is a product derived from crude oil. When blended with other fabrics, it adds an element of elasticity and a silky smooth finish, and is sometimes also a little bit cool. Unfortunately, it has a low breathability and it’s very prone to pilling. It also has only moderate heat-retention and moisture-wicking properties. Because of this, nylon or polyamide is not the best material you can have for your underwear.
Jersey is actually a style of weave, not a type of fabric. It can be made by many brands and made of different materials, so it’s difficult to give a blanket statement about Jersey. In the past, it was often made from cotton or cotton synthetics, and usually was very stretchy because it was a knit. It was a popular material for underwear. It’s usually very soft, has a high elasticity, but also a high heat-retention. With other materials like Modal and MicroModaI now on the market, Jersey has become less and less popular.
One of the most popular materials found in less-expensive underwear (other than cotton) is polyester. It is made from a synthetic polymer that’s essentially a kind of plastic. So what does that mean for underwear? Well, polyester has a high stain-resistibility. It’s also wrinkle-resistant but unfortunately, it has a very high heat-retention, which means you’re more likely to sweat. It’s also not very breathable, it has low moisture-wicking, and it’s very prone to static buildup. So again, not a good material for underwear. Why is it so widely used, then? Simply put, it’s cheap to produce!
First of all, you want it to be soft, breathable, elastic, resistant to pilling, moisture-wicking, quick-drying, have a low heat-retention, and low-maintenance. So, that means Modal and MicroModal are your top choices. In theory, they check all these points, and in practice, I saw those results when I tested them. Next in line for me are cotton (ideally with some elastane), or maybe a cotton-Modal blend. In last place come polyester and nylon, because they’re just not made for underwear.
What’s the most important thing for a pair of underwear? For me, it’s definitely that there is as little skin-to-skin contact as possible. Because of that, pouch underwear has come onto the market in multiple different variations–but not all special pouches are constructed equally. That being said, a specific pouch to prevent skin-to-skin contact isn’t always necessary if the cut, otherwise, is very ergonomic and the fit is close enough that skin doesn’t touch skin.
One other thing to look at on your underwear is the rise. Even though longer rises are more popular, I found that a shorter rise of about two to three inches is ideal, because it makes for a better fit and less skin-to-skin contact. While in the past, seams were a big deal, all the brands we tested had the same kind of flat, comfortable seams, and I couldn’t even tell that my underwear had any seams, so it’s really a non-issue these days. When it comes to the waistband, bigger isn’t always better. We found that you want something that is soft but has a certain structure that doesn’t give you a muffin top.
For this review, we tested 10 different brands of underwear. In some cases, the companies we profiled also sold underwear that was a lot more expensive, but we did not get those simply because we wanted to be fair in the under-$30 segment. By the way, this review is not sponsored; this is 100% my unbiased, honest opinion.
First, let’s start with the classic: Calvin Klein. Ever since the ’90s or even the ’80s, it has been somewhat of an underwear staple, especially in the US. They are not exactly innovative, but they’re a pre-innovation classic. How do I know? Well, I’ve personally worn Calvin Klein underwear for over 10 years. In the past, I’ve had cotton versions and polyester versions; over time, I really came to prefer the cotton ones because they make me sweat less.
Just to see where things are at today, we ordered a three-pack of Calvin Kleins in a cotton and elastane mix with 95% cotton. The cut has improved compared to their old cotton underwear, I think. Overall, for $8.32 a pair, they do a pretty good job. The waistband on the Calvin Kleins is noticeably tougher than on other pairs we tested. Otherwise, the seams and the cut on the Calvin Kleins are very similar to many other brands out there. The Calvin Kleins were made in Kenya, which is unusual; they’re the only pair of underwear in our lineup that was made there. Looking at the workmanship and stitch quality, it’s all top-notch and there’s no reason to complain. There is some skin-to-skin contact because there is no pouch, but overall, I think a good value pick. My rating would be 3 out of 5 stars.
I’ve personally owned Saxx since 2012, and they were probably one of the first companies that introduced a pouch-style underwear that reduced skin-to-skin contact (and therefore sweating, increasing the comfort). Back then, pretty much all of their models were under $30, but these days, there are few that are above $30, like the Volt and the Vibe. Now, all Saxx underwear is made in China, and the only pairs under $30 are the Undercover, the Daytripper, and the Sport Mesh. The Undercover costs $28 and is made out of a blend of cotton, Modal, and Spandex. I find the fabric to be really comfortable and I think, for $28, it’s a fair price. If you want a slightly shorter inseam, go with what they call trunks, as the boxer briefs are a little longer. The Daytripper boxer briefs cost $25, just like the Sport Mesh. Both are made of a blend of polyester and Spandex, and I would suggest you stay clear of both of them, because I don’t like the way they insulate everything down there and make you sweaty and uncomfortable.
The main feature of Saxx underwear is what they call the “Ballpark Pouch.” Basically, they use mesh panels on the left and right side to keep everything away from your thigh skin. Overall, I’ve always found that the Saxx construction was an improvement over having nothing there at all, but that the mesh was too thin to really provide a good separation. Personally, I would prefer if they used the same material that they use for the underwear. Overall, I would say my comfort was increased and it was an upgrade from a Calvin Klein pair. If you look at the marketing materials, they tout their flat seams–but again, everyone in the industry has flat seams today. They also highlight their nine-panel construction, which in theory sounds like a good idea to yield a better three-dimensional fit. However, in practice, I found that when I was wearing Saxx underwear, it didn’t feel any different than most of the other brands that had a good cut.
In terms of colors and patterns, they come in solids and a few patterns. That being said, one of the most underrated things in men’s underwear is the color. In an ideal world, I would only wear skin-tone underwear for regular fabrics, especially thinner ones, so as to not be seen. In the case of white pants or a white lining, I would even go with a white pair of underwear, so you wouldn’t see that contrasting line between the pants’ lining and your underwear. Otherwise, if you have a striped pair of underwear that you wear underneath a pair of seersuckers, you can see it through and it doesn’t look very good. The same is true if you have a gaudy pattern like pineapples, or a bold color like red. Overall, the Saxx have good material composition and I would give them a rating of 4 out of 5 stars. Why not five? Well, I think the pouch is a step in the right direction, but it’s not perfect.
MeUndies retail for $24, but they also have a monthly subscription plan where you just pay $16 per pair. They’re made in Sri Lanka, which is a big textile sewing center in the world. The material composition is 92% MicroModal and 8% elastane, which is a very good blend that checks all the boxes as discussed before. I also like their inseam of about two and a half to three inches. MeUndies are flyless, but on the inside they don’t have any extra fabric layers that prevent skin-to-skin contact. However, for me, I found they were anatomically very well cut. They had a rounded pouch rather than just straight, flat seams, and so there was a very minimal skin-to-skin contact despite the lack of a separate pouch.
So while MeUndies doesn’t make any claims beyond the basics, I found their pouch to be rather three-dimensional and large. They offer quite a wide range of colors (seven classic hues), but at the same time, they don’t have a single skin tone. They also offer a brighter color lineup, as well as very adventurous patterns with dinosaurs and pizza which I think no self-respecting gentleman should ever wear. Of course, I tested all of them, including the patterned ones, but the material and weave is all the same, so there’s no difference there. To my mind, MeUndies provide a great value, especially if you buy them as part of the membership deal–even if you don’t, $24 is less than other underwear brands charge you for a MicroModal pair with a very good cut. I would also give them 4 out of 5 stars, because there is still a small amount of skin-to-skin contact which could be improved with a pouch.
An odd name for this brand, right? Prior to this, they were branded as MyPakage, which was likewise weird. I guess they can’t really wrap their heads around a proper brand name!
Their classic boxer brief costs $30, you can buy them in packs for $55 and they also have sales. The material composition is 95% tencel Modal and 5% Spandex. Overall, very soft, very breathable, and an excellent choice for underwear. It’s made in China and has an inseam of 3 and a half inches (though I think maybe half an inch or an inch less would even be better). That being said, it’s ultimately not that important because it has a special pouch. Unlike the Saxx with their mesh strips on the sides, the BN3TH has the same fabric that is sewn in a u-shape all around. It’s a little more noticeable than the Saxx underwear, but it does a much better job at preventing skin-to-skin contact. Overall, I prefer the “MyPakage Pouch” of BN3TH to the “Ballpark Pouch” from Saxx.
Overall, the cut and material here are very good. While their pouch is functional, I think it could be slightly improved to make it even more comfortable. At the same time, their color choices are very bold, and I don’t want a pink–orange–purple, desert-inspired pair of underwear. That being said, you can get them in more muted colors–but not in skin tones, of course, because why would anyone do that? Nevertheless, 4.5 stars from me.
This brand costs $26 per pair, and you can also get them in two packs which brings the price down to $23.50. They are made in China from a 94% Nylon and 6% Spandex blend. It has a very interesting weave that’s really light and airy, and has a cool, silky-smooth touch, but overall it’s a fabric that will eventually pill and retain heat more than MicroModal, making you uncomfortable. Now, what I really don’t like about this pair of underwear is it’s very roomy and airy so for me, this underwear is a no-go. If you like this style of underwear, go for it. Otherwise, I will just give it one star out of five.
Beyond just having an unusual name, T-Bô underwear are also different in the sense that they use a blend of 95% viscose with 5% Spandex. They heavily advertise that their viscose is derived from bamboo–but we should note that for any type of viscose, you need to start with cellulose. Whether that cellulose comes from bamboo, a tree, or other sources is largely irrelevant in regard to the end product and the quality of it. It’s made in China and has a two inch inseam, which is a bit short, but that allows for a tighter fit and therefore less skin-to-skin contact.
At first, I thought their label was quite rough, but then I realized it’s a tear-off label, which is actually a smart idea. A pair costs $24.95 and has a waistband made out of the same fabric, reinforced on the inside, which I find quite comfortable. Overall, they felt good in day-to-day wear, they had very little skin-to-skin contact, no extra special pouch on the inside or any bells and whistles. Still, I’m not a big believer in viscose; it’s popular mainly because it’s cheap. So, overall, I would give it a rating of 3 out of 5 stars.
This one’s out of the ordinary in the sense that they produce in the US, but still for under $30. I think if you buy three pairs, they are even just $28 each. For an American-made product, it’s really affordable. They come with a six-inch inseam (which is a little longer), but the cut is good overall, so there’s not much skin-to-skin contact. The material is what they call a “cool Nylon and Spandex” blend. Touch and feel is silky-smooth and good, but again, Nylon isn’t the best material for underwear because it pills and retains heat. The pouch is very three-dimensional and the waistband is non-existent, so it’s very soft and comfortable to wear.
I’ve tested different RibbedTee products over the years. Originally, they came out with kind of a silicone strip on the sides of their underwear that was supposed to keep shirts from coming untucked. I didn’t think it really worked and they probably didn’t either, because they don’t do it any longer. They then switched to the Nylon-Spandex blend and adopted a shorter inseam, and the cut wasn’t ideal. I think the cut of their latest iteration is really the most superior one of all of them thus far. I just wish they would switch to a MicroModal material, because that would be even better, and elevate their rating from a 3.5 to probably a 4.5. That being said, if “Made in the US” is important to you, they’re a really good choice, and pretty much the only choice in our lineup.
Most of their stuff is made in Thailand these days, but they have different options in a below-$30 price segment. I’ve had some of their older pairs of underwear in cotton and comparing them to the newer ones, I can definitely see an improvement. The two kinds we looked at were the “18-hour Jersey” for $24, and the “Airknit X” for $28. The “18-hour Jersey” is a blend of 47.5% Modal, 47.5% cotton, and 5% Spandex. It is super soft, a very comfortable fabric, and even though it has cotton which absorbs moisture, I find it to be very comfortable if you just go to the office and live in a climate that’s not super hot. The waistband is noticeably improved from the old underwear, it’s much softer now and it’s advertised as “no-roll.” I’ve had no issues with it. This style has a flyless pouch and areas with mesh that’s supposed to increase breathability, but there’s no separate inside pouch the way we know it at Sheath, Saxx, or BN3TH.
One thing that’s weird about them is that they put the material composition information on the outside of the underwear, which makes me feel like I have a big tag on the outside (which I don’t like). Meanwhile, the Airknit X is made of a material that is a blend of polyamide, polyester, and elastane, which they call “Breathable Microfiber.” To my mind it’s an attempt to recreate some of the characteristics (such as the softness and stretchability) of Modal or Micromodal, but it’s simply not as good of a fabric. The other thing Mack Weldon does is put “FOR DAILY WEAR” on the inside of the waistband, so I have accidentally worn them inside-out. I think they are a decent pair of underwear, but nothing special; I’d say 3.5 out of five stars.
The line I like from this brand is the “Sheath V” sports performance underwear. It’s made out of 92% Modal and 8% elastane, and costs $29. Now, just like Saxx or BN3TH, Sheath heavily advertises their pouch–but honestly, I found that their pouch is designed so poorly that it doesn’t really do its job, and I have skin-to-skin contact all day. The pouch is cut so high that you can constantly feel it, which I don’t think it’s beneficial. So while the material is nice, having this extra layer on the inside which I can feel isn’t ideal, so I’ll just give them 2.5 out of five stars.
Regarding Tommy John, we looked at their offerings, and most of it really comes in at above $30. They had one option that had a really long inseam, almost all the way down to the knee, which I’m not a fan of at all. Another option was just plain cotton, but we refrained from testing them because I think their heart is really in more expensive underwear. As such, we’ll test them at a later point in time when we talk about premium underwear. So what about brands like Tani, Hanro, or Zimmerli? Again, just like Tommy John, they are more premium brands and we’ll discuss them at another time.
Overall, my favorite in this lineup was BN3TH, just by a short margin. If MeUndies had a pouch system, I think they would have been my favorite. The best American-made option would be RibbedTee, and if you really want to go “budget,” I’d suggest Calvin Klein. If you can afford a little more, maybe MeUndies represents the best “bang for the buck.”
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