When it gets really cold outside, in Minneapolis, Minnesota where I live, people start complaining and for me, it is the other way around. I love wearing overcoats because it allows me to add an additional layer to my cold weather outfits.
Well, my collection was built as over the years, I bought vintage. I really like vintage overcoats for 4 reasons.
I started with topcoats, specifically, my trench coats. Although they are not overcoats, I included them here because in warmer areas of the world, you can wear trench coats during the winter. I have four trench coats but I only wear three regularly and these are the double-breasted ones. Why? I like the look of them and that is also the classic style.
Sand colored trench coat from Jupiter
The first trench coat I bought had this typical khaki or sand color, it was from Jupiter Paris, it was made in Korea with a composition of 65% polyester and 35% cotton for the shell, as well as the lining. Overall, I think it was a good entry-level coat, it was not too long, it had some details, it definitely had fewer details such as the D rings of the Burberry trench coat. The Jupiter Paris one cost me $25 and I bought it on eBay.
Black Burberry Trench Coat
The second trench coat I got was from Burberry. It is a black one and I bought it in 2007 from a store called Rudolf Beaufays in Hamburg which specializes in vintage British goods. I think, at the time, it cost about €200 and I bought it from the proceeds of the sale of a Goyard suitcase. The shell is made of 67% polyester and 33% cotton while the lining is 50% poly and 50% cotton. It’s made in England, it has the old label and it has regular sleeves, not raglan sleeves. That is not typical for a trench coat but I really like the look of it. Also, the buttons get slightly narrower to the bottom and it’s just very elegant, in my opinion. It also has a very slim cut which is unlike most traditional trench coats which are cut a little more roomy. I like this trench coat for travel because it’s dark and it does not pick up dirt very quickly. That being said, if I could buy it all over again, I am probably getting a charcoal color or maybe a dark navy because it is more versatile than black.
Khaki Burberry Trench Coat
The other Burberry trench coat is in a classic khaki color. The buttons were replaced and it was a second-hand piece that I got from someone and I can not remember how much it cost. This one is the classic trench coat with all the bells and whistles and details such as epaulets, the belt with the D ring, the hand warmer pockets, the kind of rain flaps. What makes this trench coat unique are two things; one, it has buttons that were replaced, they are kind of brass buttons with a crest and they are kind of vintage looking and I really like that. On top of that, it has a nice removable lining that is made out of wool which comes in really handy if you live in an area where it may get a little cooler in the winter but not super cold.
Herno Trench Coat
Last but not the least, my fourth trench coat is a gray single-breasted one from Herno made for Max Dietl in Munchen. Herno is an Italian brand and they specialize in fur coats so while the fit and look of this trench coat is not very appealing, in my opinion, I only bought it for its fur lining because it is mink and if you buy it new, it costs you probably around $5000. I got this one for $200 from eBay and I am going to take out the liner with the zipper and put them to another overcoat that I need to be really warm because mink, because of the fine under hair, is extremely warm. With trench coats, you do not really need a scarf, I like to wear gloves with them, especially unlined gloves because it is about the right weight and insulation that you need when you wear a trench coat. I like suede gloves in red or navy but I also like to wear my driving gloves maybe in green or petrol blue or red.
That is usually an option for people who do not live in a very cool climate or who just do not like the look of a long traditional overcoat.
Peacoat
It is from the US Navy. It is an officer’s coat and you can tell by the golden brass buttons. It is hard-wearing, it is made of 100% wool and it is very inexpensive. I got mine from eBay for under $100.The great thing about it is it comes in many different sizes, regular lengths, short lengths and you just have to know your measurements and see that you get something that fits you, otherwise, they can be a bit roomy. Most pea coats out there will have those black anchor buttons, I like the gold officer’s buttons and from 1974 to 84, they also had ones with pewter buttons which I would like even more, it’s just a little harder to find. I combine my peacoat with contrasting gloves and scarves. That means nothing too dark. For example, a yellow cashmere herringbone scarf and pretty much anything else would work, too. Just avoid black, dark brown, or navy scarves or gloves.
Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a vintage double-breasted check plaid overcoat from Austin Reed with an Alpaca double-sided scarf and leather gloves
I bought it at this gigantic flea market in Brimfield, Massachusetts for $10. I would think it is from the 60s or 70s, it has a bolder pattern and a nice, heavy weight so it is very easy and quick to put on, it has a little belt, and because the pattern is strong, I typically combine it with solid scarves and solid gloves. I try to tone down the colors, more neutrals, browns, or tans. I mean, you can maybe wear red gloves but because the pattern of the coat is already so loud, I try to tone the accessories down. Sadly, this great 100% wool coat is no longer available because the brand Austin Reed does not really exist in its original shape anymore.
These are overcoats that I would wear with traditional charcoal or navy three-piece business suits. Typically, they are made out of finer materials such as cashmere or higher twisted wool. More often than not, they are medium to lightweight because you just wear them to and from the office and typically, you do not want something that is well suited for an Antarctic exhibition. Why? Well, if you wear it on top of a suit, chances are you may sweat and that is not desirable.
Chester Barrie Overcoat
I like it because it is buttoned on the lower button and the 4×1 button configuration is unusual. It is 100% cashmere, it is a medium weight, I’d say, and I bought it for $100 from eBay. Because it is dark, it could also be worn with a tuxedo which is great if you do not have a separate evening overcoat. It looks great for business with, let’s say, a gray pair of gloves or something darker like petrol. For a more casual look, you can maybe wear brown gloves or chamois yellow gloves, orange gloves, or red gloves. In terms of scarves, I think a subtle pattern or any kind of pattern with a solid overcoat always looks good. If you want it to be true business, maybe you get it in dolphin gray so you enough contrast but it’s a traditional business color. If you want to be a little louder, you can maybe go with a yellow scarf, something orange, or maybe something green, or basically, any other contrasting color.
Light Navy Cashmere Coat
It’s made by Sidi GFT in Italy and it uses 100% Loro Piana Cashmere. It is a little heavier than the double-breasted one but otherwise, you wear the same kind of accessories with it.
Black & White Herringbone Overcoat
My black and white herringbone overcoat is double-breasted. It is a vintage piece, it was made by Malcolm & Kenneth. It’s made from 100% Stonehenge cheviot wool. It has nice details such as oversized flap pockets and nice big ulster collar without any buttonhole and a half-belted back, the color pops up nicely which I like in the winter ’cause it protects my neck from the wind. It also has a decent length which allows me to stay warm. It was sold at Dayton’s, it was a local department store many years ago and I bought it for $50 at a vintage store locally.
Barleycorn Pattern Overcoat by Chester Barrie
My last business overcoat is a special one from Chester Barrie which has this unusual fabric consisting of gray, blue, and black yarns. It has this barleycorn pattern and so from afar, it looks like a solid color, when you come more up close, you can see the pattern but because it contains all the traditional business colors, it is very easy to combine it with any kind of business suit. The cut is a typical double-breasted paletot coat and you can learn more about the details in our paletot guide. What makes it special is the contrasting black velvet collar. That collar definitely makes you stand out from the crown in a very debonair way. I think it looks great with black gloves or gray gloves because it is a very business-like color. For scarves, I’d say go with something that has a light pattern such as our wool silk scarves which have classic paisleys. Of course, a pattern like herringbone will work too. When you want to increase the formality of this overcoat, add a fedora hat to it, like a dark one, for example, with maybe a printed burgundy scarf and petrol gloves. It looks awesome! Just like with the other business overcoats, you can pair it with lighter accessories but the brighter they get, the more casual your overall look becomes.
I like to wear flannel suits in unusual colors and patterns or tweed jackets or cardigans and for those, a traditional business overcoat is not the right option. Instead, you go with something that is a little more casual in terms of the details and the fabrics.
British warm overcoat paired with cognac colored gloves from Fort Belvedere
The first one I bought was a from Gieves & Hawks. It cost me about $200-$250 and I bought it from eBay in the UK. It is very heavy, it has leather buttons, it has a smaller peak lapel and epaulets that shows there is a military heritage to that coat. The shoulder’s a little wide for me but it’s really heavy and so I love to wear it in the winter, especially with a brown fedora hat and brown gloves and a darker pattern scarf. You can see, you always want your accessories to be slightly contrasting to your overcoat. This one can be worn with a pocket square or alternatively, you can just put your gloves in there when you don’t wear them, let’s say, when you are inside.
Green Duffle coat
The original Montgomery in a very bright green is made in England, it’s a size L and it is 90% wool and 10% polyamide which is nylon. It wasn’t super expensive, it cost less than $100, it was on sale directly on their website yet I have not worn this coat really more than the single time when I took videos of it. Why? Well, it is quite bold and it is not subtle. It was my first duffle coat and it is quite casual, it has these wooden toggles, as well as a hood so you do not need an extra hat. That being said, it is such a loud color that if you wear it, you have to really tone down your accessories and go with something darker or brown otherwise, it becomes too clownish.
DB navy overcoat, brown corduroy, tan shoes, burnt orange and gray scarf from Fort Belvedere
Another recent addition is a great double-breasted navy overcoat which is made out of a boiled wool. I bought it at Bobby from Boston for about $200 but it is a bespoke coat from a tailor in Sheffield. It is really heavy, has this nice ulster collar and it keeps me really warm, especially when I put on the belt. It does not have typical flap pockets of a business overcoat instead, these are more like hand warmer pockets. Just like the other navy overcoats, it’s really fantastic with colorful accessories and because it’s more casual, the sky is really the limit, whether it’s orange, red, yellow, green, a turquoise, you can wear everything with it.
Donegal tweed overcoat. fedora hat, Fort Belvedere yellow gloves and blue scarf
I’ve had this Donegal tweed overcoat for a long time. It was made from Marshall Fields. I suspect it is from the 80s or maybe 90s. The tweed is not super heavy but it has these rich colorful flecks which allows you to wear pretty much anything in terms of color. Because it’s such a bold pattern with all the colors, you better stick with solid gloves and scarves. I bought it on eBay for under $100. It has a half belt as well as turnups or cuffs and a seam on the outside sleeve. Normally, you would expect the coat of this kind to have an ulster collar just like this, but this one has a peak lapel which makes it more formal which is kind of funny because it is in contrast to the patch pockets with the flaps which are more casual.
Donegal tweed overcoat
Similarly, the next overcoat is a Donegal tweed overcoat but I bought it in Germany in 2015 at a flea market for €5 when it was 90° or 30° Celsius outside so no one else was interested in overcoats so I picked it up. It was made in Germany and I really like it because it has those bold flecks, it’s a bold pattern but it’s overly neutral, shades of brown, black, off-white, and because of that, any accessories in that color palette will work and look really well without being over the top. It has beautiful patch pockets, a nice ulster collar, and it is double-breasted but it has a very slim button stance which is different than other coats I have. It features a belt which I like to use and it has a little detail on the sleeves too. Again, because the pattern of the overcoat is so bold, I keep it mostly with accessories that are in a solid color.
Loden Frey Overcoat
Another casual piece is the cavalry twill overcoat. It comes from a big department store with clothing in Munich, Germany which is called Loden Frey. It’s pretty lightweight for a woolen overcoat but it is a very tightly woven twill that has a diagonal pattern on the overcoat. it has hand warmer pockets, epaulets, back belt, as well as leather buttons in brown. I like the pockets because they are very easy to reach in and out of. The belt in the back makes it a little more unique and the epaulets just highlight the military heritage. Like I said many times before, overcoats are great when they are double-breasted because it means you have two layers of fabric over the center of your body which will keep you warmer when it is colder outside. Because it is a solid overcoat in a neutral or natural tone similar to that of a trench coat, you really look best in it if you pair it with patterned scarves and contrasting gloves in a color. I mean it can be gray but you can also go with a dark burgundy, for example.
Heinz Becker overcoat
I have another cavalry twill overcoat that is a little heavier and it is a bespoke piece from Heinz Becker in Munich. I also got it second hand and I like it a lot. It has a bunch of special details which start with the buttons which are metal, it has, of course, some epaulets and a half belt in the back. What makes it special are the flap pockets which are angled and the big turnups on the side. It is heavily military-inspired and on top of that, the most unique detail is probably the chest pocket which has a flap. You can tell it’s a bespoke piece because of that. I have never seen something like that off the rack. I typically wear it with contrasting gloves and scarves.
Fur coat
My first fur coat in nutria is double-breasted. I bought it many years ago at eBay and I think it did not cost me more than $300 bucks. While fur coats are not very popular for men these days, they used to be extremely popular in the 1930s. Yes, even in the US, men would wear those when they would go and watch football games, for example. The fur of the nutria is not as good as that of beaver but it’s a large rodent that is similar to beaver. Because of the fine underhair, it is really warm when you wear it but that longer hairy look is best if you pair it with a fedora hat. Honestly, a fur coat would keep you really warm even if it is terribly cold outside and if a fur on the outside is too much for you, maybe consider a fur lining like beaver, for example, or mink is heavenly.
The other fur coat I own, I bought it at a flea market in Hamburg, Germany. I am not a hundred percent sure but I think it is rabbit because it does not have that fine underhair that a nutria or beaver or a mink has, for example. That being said, it’s a very soft coat and it is still plenty warm. Unfortunately, it sheds a little bit since it is a little older but I do not mind that. Since both my fur coats are dark, I like to pair them with lighter or neutral accessories such as red gloves, green gloves, and a matching pattern scarf that pick up the color of the gloves but is contrasting enough to the overcoat.
Evening Overcoat
Last but not the least, probably my favorite overcoat is my evening overcoat. It’s very rare these days that people do not even know what an evening overcoat is, let alone that they have one. The only way to get them is to have them made bespoke. This one was made by Hermann Vohrahlik in Germany and it is probably 60 or 70 years old. I bought it on eBay years ago because I saw that the lapels were silk faced because they are very contrasting from the black wool fabric. The interior is lined with high-quality black silk from edge to edge and it just turns over onto the lapel. It has a single closing button and a very deep V and the reason is you really just wear it on top of your tuxedo, it’s more a decorative piece that is supposed to keep it protected from the harshest elements but it is all about the looks and not necessarily about keeping you 100% warm. That being said, it is an old fabric, it’s heavier and with just one closing button, you can take it off very easily and typically, it is worn with a homburg for a black tie tuxedo or a top hat if it’s a white tie ensemble. It is also combined with an evening scarf, either in white silk or black and white silk and you can wear it with a white linen pocket square and white evening gloves.
Nice post! I needed a good winter overcoat& some casual winter wear. Your helpful blog has answered my queries. In addition to that, the handy links will readily enable me to buy these wonderful winter clothes effortlessly. Keep sharing such useful posts with more men’s collection.
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